Finally, finally, FINALLY...
The place that I dreamed about and crossed my fingers for in the past 15 years or so (since reading and watching Memoirs of a Geisha) has become a reality.
With numerous other tourists, I'm in Gion, Kyoto's most famous geisha district, hoping to tick off at the same time a must-see subsidiary item.
To catch a glimpse of a geiko or maiko.
What?! Who?! Were you expecting me to say, geisha?
Confused?
I was, too, at first.
Here's what I've learned.
Geisha, as it is known in Tokyo, is called a geiko in Kyoto. A maiko is a younger woman or even a child who is training in the arts of the geisha and geiko.
Now that terms have been cleared, let's look around this iconic place, shall we?
Umm... See that traditional wooden machiya townhouse? That is what I think my front entry could look right now.
And shōji walls. Yes, please.
But enough daydreaming...
For shortly, an excited murmur runs through the crowd. Within seconds, it becomes the wild buzz like that of a high school auditorium before the teachers take charge.
Everyone is talking all at once.
I have been patiently waiting for this moment.
I was, too, at first.
Here's what I've learned.
Geisha, as it is known in Tokyo, is called a geiko in Kyoto. A maiko is a younger woman or even a child who is training in the arts of the geisha and geiko.
Now that terms have been cleared, let's look around this iconic place, shall we?
Umm... See that traditional wooden machiya townhouse? That is what I think my front entry could look right now.
Wooden lattices on the first floor facade. Unpainted maybe, just like those. Or painted in red ochre.
With a second story window that is not made of wood, but of earthwork. An insect cage window, our tour guide explains. I wonder why?
With a second story window that is not made of wood, but of earthwork. An insect cage window, our tour guide explains. I wonder why?
What do you think about that entrance door? Too narrow, do you agree?
It looks so closed-in and mysterious. I bet I could easily do a reno on that and have it open into a big tatami room.
And shōji walls. Yes, please.
But enough daydreaming...
For shortly, an excited murmur runs through the crowd. Within seconds, it becomes the wild buzz like that of a high school auditorium before the teachers take charge.
Everyone is talking all at once.
A maiko...
Ahh... Quaint. Exquisite.
She is shuffling in a pair of cumbersome zori flip-flop sandals.
Ahh... Quaint. Exquisite.
She is shuffling in a pair of cumbersome zori flip-flop sandals.
Her kimono, long, colorful, and intricately adorned with embroidery, has extra long sleeves that touch the ground when she drops her arms. Her collar is red, and her obi is long and wide.
Our tourist guides explains, She must be on her way from an engagement at an 'ochaya' tea house.
I'm fascinated, staring at her ultra-white face. Way too light, rendering her with a ghostly appearance. Her okiya 'mother' obviously has not heard of, or doesn't really care about, matching her makeup to her skin tone.
I'll concede, though, that it goes well with the hair. No messy bun for this lady. Hers is a low, flattened chignon that is elaborately decorated with combs and hairpins.
FYI: Have you heard that in order to keep this hairstyle in as perfect a condition as possible, a maiko is unable to use pillows and has to sleep with her neck in a small wooden support?
In order to become accustomed to this practice, the maiko’s mentor often places rice around the base of the support. If in the morning, rice grains are found in her hair, the maiko knows she has moved her head too much while asleep.
What more can I say? Such is an apprentice's life in Gion.
She flits away like a butterfly. I try to listen to her footsteps, but she has left without a whisper of a sound.
In Gion, there is only the exhalation of the wind and the seasonal sound of a wind-bell in the distance.
Our tourist guides explains, She must be on her way from an engagement at an 'ochaya' tea house.
I'm fascinated, staring at her ultra-white face. Way too light, rendering her with a ghostly appearance. Her okiya 'mother' obviously has not heard of, or doesn't really care about, matching her makeup to her skin tone.
I'll concede, though, that it goes well with the hair. No messy bun for this lady. Hers is a low, flattened chignon that is elaborately decorated with combs and hairpins.
FYI: Have you heard that in order to keep this hairstyle in as perfect a condition as possible, a maiko is unable to use pillows and has to sleep with her neck in a small wooden support?
マジで
(A Japanese interjection for, Seriously)
In order to become accustomed to this practice, the maiko’s mentor often places rice around the base of the support. If in the morning, rice grains are found in her hair, the maiko knows she has moved her head too much while asleep.
What more can I say? Such is an apprentice's life in Gion.
She flits away like a butterfly. I try to listen to her footsteps, but she has left without a whisper of a sound.
In Gion, there is only the exhalation of the wind and the seasonal sound of a wind-bell in the distance.
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